Ever feel like you’re playing Goldilocks with your outerwear? Your fleece is warm but lets the wind bite right through, and your stiff, crinkly waterproof jacket makes you sweat buckets the minute you start moving uphill.
Enter the softshell jacket: the hero designed to bridge that exact gap. Softshell jackets have quickly become the preferred choice for outdoor activities like hiking, skiing, and climbing because they offer a fantastic balance of protection, flexibility, and comfort.
But what exactly is this “miracle textile,” and when should you wear it? Let’s break down everything you need to know about the surprisingly sophisticated softshell.
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The Softshell Jacket, Explained
A softshell is a versatile, performance-oriented outer garment built using specialized woven fabrics. Unlike traditional hard shells (which feel stiff and protective, like armor), softshells live up to their name by being softer, stretchier, and much more comfortable.
The Anatomy of a Softshell
Softshell material is typically a clever construction woven from synthetic materials like polyester, nylon, and elastane. Most performance softshells utilize an advanced three-layer construction laminated together:
- Outer Layer: Usually a synthetic, abrasion-resistant fabric treated with a Durable Water Repellent (DWR) finish to repel wind and light rain.
- Middle Layer: Often a waterproof and breathable membrane, engineered to block wind while still letting sweat vapor escape.
- Inner Layer: A soft lining, frequently fleece or a brushed material, designed to provide comfort, insulation, and help wick moisture away from your body.
This layered structure maximizes performance, delivering protection against the elements without sacrificing comfort or freedom of movement.
A Brief History: Built for Action
The concept of the softshell dates back nearly 30 years, originating largely within the rock climbing community. Climbers and hikers needed something that was warm and water-resistant but wouldn’t tear up easily on rock faces, a problem traditional fleece and puffy jackets couldn’t solve. The goal was to create one jacket that offered wind protection, light insulation, and the durability needed for the rough-and-tumble of the outdoors.
The Core Philosophy: Breathability Over Waterproofing
This is the most crucial distinction: the softshell’s design is based on a trade-off—it deliberately prioritizes superior breathability and flexibility over achieving total, guaranteed waterproofing.
Water Resistance vs. Waterproofing
Softshells are designed to be water-repellent or water-resistant, but generally, they are not fully waterproof.
They handle light rain or snow perfectly well, thanks to the DWR coating. However, if you are stuck in a torrential downpour, the fabric will eventually soak through because softshells typically do not have fully taped or laminated seams. Fully taping seams would compromise the jacket’s crucial flexibility and airflow, defeating its primary purpose.
For comparison, O’Neill’s softshell jackets, for example, might feature a 10,000 mm waterproof rating and a 7,000 g/m² breathability rating, along with a PFC-free DWR coating.
The Real Superpower: Air Permeability (CFM)
While hard shells are measured by how much moisture vapor can slowly diffuse through (MVTR/RET), softshells are measured by CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute), which quantifies the volume of air that can physically pass through the fabric.
For high-exertion activities where you generate a lot of sweat, CFM is key. High CFM allows for mechanical air exchange and rapid cooling, proactively preventing the dangerous chilling effect caused by sweat saturation when you stop moving.
For contrast, a top-tier hardshell (like 30k/30k Gore-Tex Pro) usually registers less than one CFM. Meanwhile, highly breathable softshells can achieve ratings of 25 to 30 CFM. This massive difference means softshells can offer airflow that is 10 to 30 times greater than a hardshell.
Softshell CFM Range and Use Cases
The CFM rating helps dictate the intended function of the jacket, balancing wind resistance with airflow.
| CFM Range (Cubic Feet per Minute) | Prioritized Feature/Design | Activity Profile/Conditions |
| Low Range (5 – 10 CFM) | Maximum Wind Resistance, Robust Fabric | Severe cold, high-altitude technical climbing, lower-output movement |
| Mid-Range (18 – 25 CFM) | Balanced Protection & Airflow | Backcountry ski touring, general hiking/trekking, versatile use |
| High Range (25 – 30+ CFM) | Maximum Air Permeability, Minimalist Design | High-output running, trail running, fast hiking, warm weather climbing |
Softshell vs. Hardshell: Which One Do You Need?
The choice between the two fundamentally depends on the conditions you expect and your activity level.
| Feature | Softshell Jacket | Hardshell Jacket |
| Primary Function | Active temperature and moisture regulator; flexibility | Passive defender; maximum external protection |
| Water Protection | Water-resistant/Water-repellent (DWR finish) | Fully waterproof (laminate + taped seams) |
| Breathability | Very High (High CFM) | Moderate to High (Relies on MVTR/Vapor Diffusion) |
| Flexibility/Feel | Excellent stretch, soft, quiet material | Minimal stretch, stiff, may make a rustling sound |
| Insulation | Often lightly insulated or fleece-lined; provides warmth | Uninsulated; insulation must be layered underneath |
| Durability | High abrasion resistance (great for technical climbing) | Durable, but requires care to protect the membrane |
| Best Use | High-exertion activities (touring, climbing), fair/mild weather, day-to-day | Stormy weather, heavy snowfall, unpredictable wet climates |
The Takeaway: If you’re moving fast and sweating a lot in cold or dry conditions, the softshell keeps you drier and more comfortable. If you expect heavy rain or persistent, stormy weather, the hardshell is your required armor. Many experienced outdoor enthusiasts carry both: a softshell as their main active layer and a lightweight, packable hardshell as an emergency shell.
How to Layer with a Softshell
Softshells work best as the outer layer in the traditional three-layer system. Proper layering is crucial for regulating body temperature and preventing moisture build-up.
- Base Layer: This layer is closest to your skin and wicks sweat away. Choose moisture-managing materials like Merino wool or quick-drying synthetic fabrics (like polyester). (Remember: Never wear cotton as a base layer, as it retains moisture and will make you cold!).
- Mid-Layer: This layer provides insulation and warmth. Depending on the temperature, you might choose a fleece jacket (sometimes a grid fleece like the Patagonia R1 is recommended) or a lightweight down/synthetic insulated jacket.
- Outer Layer (Softshell): The softshell goes over your base and mid-layers, providing wind protection and light weather resistance while letting internal moisture escape.
If you are interested in exploring different layering concepts further, the book Freedom of the Hills contains excellent breakdowns of technical layering systems.
Keeping Your Softshell Functioning (Care Tips)
To maximize the life and performance of your softshell jacket, proper maintenance is essential.
- Wash it: Regular washing actually improves the performance of softshell clothing by cleaning the membrane and reactivating the DWR coating.
- Close Everything: Before washing, fasten all zippers and Velcro closures.
- No Fabric Softener! This is a critical rule: Do not use fabric softener, as it can damage the membrane and clog the pores, drastically reducing breathability. Use liquid detergent, preferably one specifically made for outdoor gear.
- Test the DWR: If water stops beading up and the fabric darkens slightly where water sits, the DWR finish needs renewal. You can restore water repellency by cleaning the jacket and then reapplying a DWR product (spray-on or wash-in).
Conclusion: The Active Regulator
The softshell jacket is a highly effective piece of gear that changed how we approach technical outdoor apparel. It is not merely a middle layer or a light windbreaker; it is an active thermal regulator, constantly managing your internal climate with its high air permeability.
If your adventures involve continuous movement—whether you’re scrambling up a mountain, speeding down a ski tour track, or just enjoying a brisk hike—the softshell is engineered to keep you comfortable by prioritizing breathability and mobility. It allows you to move freely and stay dry from the inside out, ensuring you focus on the activity, not on constantly changing layers.
Disclaimer: You can purchase softshell jackets for men, women, and children from various retailers mentioned in the sources, such as O’Neill and Strauss (which offers options like the O’Neill TRVLR Series Softshell Jacket or the Strauss softshell jacket e.s. motion 2020), as well as through retailers specializing in technical outdoor gear like Alpenglow Sports or Crate Club’s shop. Always consult the specific care instructions on your garment.